Frequently Asked Questions
How is stone priced?
One of the best things about our industry is that there is no connection between quality and price. Often, even the least expensive option can be a very high quality slab that makes a perfect material for your countertop. Pricing is instead based on a few simple considerations.
- Supply and demand – Brazil is an example of a mature economy where they have the perfect combination of excellent materials to be quarried, a high level of technological expertise in extraction to minimize waste and loss, and an excellent distribution and transportation network to move materials from the quarry to finishing factories to ports for shipment to the US and other countries. For these reasons and many others, there is a massive supply of high quality low cost Brazilian materials in the DC market.
- Labor and insurance – Norway and France are good examples of countries with a good supply of materials and technology, but prohibitively high labor and insurance costs that inflate their final product costs to consumers here and elsewhere. The high quality finishes and precise finishing can sometimes balance these increased costs and make the finished slabs very attractive and worth the premium they command.
- Market manipulation – As recently as last year Saudi Arabia was toying with the idea that pricing on their product had fallen through acceptable levels and that by limiting supply, they could put it back within the target range they had decided was appropriate for the three primary colors they export. As a result, we have seen less supply, lower quality and higher costs on some of these items as wholesalers clear out stocks.
- The unicorn factor – Every year we see one or two colors quarried and sold that the market had not known about and/or not thought possible. This is normally the result of technologically advanced quarrying methods being applied to previously failed natural resources such as onyx or quartzite. They immediately become quite popular and we see prices climb dramatically. White Fantasy or Super White is an example of this with suppliers currently charging a 200% premium over what we purchased it for 2 years ago.
- Resource mismanagement – Kashmir White and Kashmir Gold among others are currently missing from the world supply chain due to mismanagement and criminal activity by their quarry owners in India. The stone is there to be quarried, but the ownership is in doubt and as of now, no one has stepped up to replace them and get the machines working again. As a result, the only stock of these materials that is left is subpar and overpriced.
- Curb appeal – At the end of the day, if someone falls in love with a color, an extra thousand dollars or two is not then end of the world in a $600,000 home. Especially when you consider that these countertops are likely to be with you and your family for 50 years or more. For this reason, less honest wholesalers will simply raise the price on whatever is selling well at the time due to design trends or local popularity. We see some materials vary up to 50% year over year.
The bottom line is that you should get a quote for all levels before you go shopping. This way you can identify a stone in each level if you wish and make an informed decision about what is right for you and your project. Some of these materials we see and love every day are truly works of art and it is next to impossible to place a value on what they mean to the people that take them home.
Which is better, granite or quartz?
The internet is filled with answers to this question with strong opinions on both sides. As a manufacturer of both materials, we are happy to provide some rare unbiased advice on this question. First, a few important notes.
- One, a large percentage of the information available online is either by manufacturers who are financially motivated to promote their own products or by homeowners who have made a selection and feel passionate about the answers they arrived at for themselves, but are not necessarily the correct answer for you and your home.
- Two, natural stones have a massive range of characteristics which can make them a better solution in some areas and inappropriate in others depending on how they are used.
- Three, very few people in Italy who walk on 400 year old marble steps every day outside would understand that we think of the material as ‘fragile’. Materials such as these simply wear and age developing a patina that varies over time and is a living finish instead of a static alternative like the polished granites and engineered slabs of today.
- Four, all of the materials in the market today make exceptional countertop surfaces and we should think of this conversation as a luxury when possible and try not to be overwhelmed by the number of options. Even just ten years ago we had far fewer alternatives and many projects were limited in scope due to the extreme cost and/or lead time involved with less common materials.
So which one is better? The most frequent analogy I use to help frame an answer is to compare a desk from Ikea to an old wood dresser from your grandparents. After a few years, even if the Ikea desk is in perfect shape, you tend to get tired of it because it is man made. Whereas the natural wood dresser sits in the corner for decades without ever making you think of replacing it. This is the power of natural materials. We often seem somehow programmed to be more relaxed and comfortable around natural looking materials. This does not mean, however, that modern ‘minimalist’ furniture can not look stunning used in the right application. So the first thing you have to come to terms with is the look and feel of the surface. Ignore finding exactly the right color and take home a sample of both. See which one seems to blend in with your style of living and use that one. I know this seems simple, but it is very effective.
For the last eighteen months, however, we have seen an explosion in engineered stones that are increasingly mimicking the most popular granite choices and looking better and better with each technological advance. If you decide that you want that natural look and can achieve it with an engineered stone product that fits your comfort level better, that can be a great win. We stock five Cambria colors that we think are market leaders right now for this very reason.
For many consumers, the selection can also come down to budget. The bottom line is that entry level granite is a better value then entry level engineered quartz. If you can find a level one granite that you enjoy, it is likely to be forty percent cheaper then the entry level quartz. And the quartz products that look like natural stone will be double. This is a powerful argument and is a simple supply and demand result due to the massive supply of granite and limited supply of engineered materials with expensive middlemen and distribution networks. The actual fabrication and installation costs are relatively similar.
So let’s assume that you have now narrowed down your selections to one engineered product such as Cambria or Silestone and one granite color. Which one to choose? In all likelihood, you will have these countertops for as long as you own your home, so choose the one that speaks to you and will make you the most happy to bake biscuits on with the children on snow days. Choose the one that will give you the look you want when you set out appetizers for dinner parties. They are both going to hold up fine.
What areas do you serve?
With showroom and manufacturing facilities in Ashland, Granite Source serves almost all of Virginia.
Specific counties are as follows: Charlottesville, Amelia, Amherst, Appomattox, Arlington, Tysons, Buckingham, Rustburg, Bowling Green, Charles City, Charlotte Court House, Chesterfield, Berryville, Culpeper, Cumberland, Dinwiddie, Tappahanock, Fairfax, Warrenton, Palmyra, Winchester, Gloucester, Goochland, Hanover, Richmond, Northern Virginia, Williamsburg, King George, King William, Lancaster, Leesburg, Louisa, Madison, Matthews, Saluda, Lovingston, New Kent, Eastville, Heathsville, Nottoway, Orange, Luray, Powhatan, Farmville, Prince George, Manassas, Washington, Woodstock, Spotsylvania, Stafford, Surry, Sussex, Front Royal, Montross, Yorktown, Alexandria, Charlottesville, Chesapeake, Colonial Heights, Fairfax, Chantilly, South Riding, Falls Church, Fredericksburg, Hampton, Hopewell, Manassas Park, Newport News, Norfolk, Petersburg, Poquoson, Portsmouth, Richmond, Virginia Beach, Williamsburg, Winchester. Anne Arundel, Baltimore, Calvert, Caroline, Charles, Frederick, Harford, Howard, Montgomery, Prince George, Saint Mary, Annapolis, Eastport, Capitol Hill.
Do I need to seal my countertops?
One of the most frequent questions we receive is about sealing, both whether it is necessary and if so, with what frequency it should be completed.
The simple answer is as follows:
‘If the stone is developing water spots during normal use, your tops need to be sealed. Sealing your stone is a simple process of spraying it on and wiping it off. It will need to be re-done when water spots start to re-develop.’
The more complicated answer depends on the exact type of countertop you have selected and what your subjective performance goals are for your particular usage. The vast majority of our installations are granite, and this type of formation, an igneous rock, literally translates to ‘born of fire’. This is an extremely violent process that millions of years later results in an enormous variety of densities and variations in absorbency. Each block removed from a mountain side will vary in sealing needs and tendencies, even though they have a similar finish applied.
All countertops should be considered absorbent, even our engineered quartz varieties like Zodiaq and Caeserstone. The goal is to provide a countertop that is dense enough to repel moisture inherently and then add a layer of protection and sealant that makes it even more durable for constant use. Some are better at this than others, but the majority of what is sold as polished, resined slabs in this country are up to the task and will perform admirably.
The addition of a new generation sealant, like the flurochemical sealers we sell at our shop, will actually bond with the surface of the stone and provide a long term layer of protection against both water and oil stains. These sealers are slightly more expensive, but should decrease the sealing frequency and end up costing less over time.
I would be remiss in any discussion of sealers to not discuss the fact that the majority of users never seal their countertops and do not experience staining. For those of you that have visited Italy, you are familiar with solid marble exterior stairways. These have been exposed to the elements for hundreds of years and have no stains or blemishes. The idea here is that anything that does stain the countertop will eventually disappears and is just a part of having a beautiful piece of nature in your home. As very few stones are susceptible to stains in the first place due to their natural density, this is a good answer for a lot of homeowners.
At the end of the day, this is a personal choice. If you would like to seal your countertops, it is inexpensive and simple to do.
How do I choose a sink?
A kitchen sink is not just a kitchen sink any more. While you will spend a lot of time enjoying the look of your new countertops, a large percentage of your actual time in the kitchen will be spent working around the sink and faucet. These selections are crucial to the functionality and eventual enjoyment of your new project and should be well thought out with as much information as possible. There are different materials to choose from, different configurations and a myriad of actual sizes. Finding the right one is not so much a science, but a matter of talking through how you use the space and what your sink normally looks like. Dishes drying? Large trays? Dinner from the last three nights? Peeled vegetables? Spotless and pristine? There is an answer for everyone and every situation. Last year at Granite Source alone we installed 456 different types of sinks. And each year brings more and more new styles and trends to consider. Don’t worry. We all manage to choose the right cereal in the store somehow. Or do we?
Silgranit – Defined as hard composite, these sinks are actually manufactured from a mix of materials of which up to 80% is granite and rest an acrylic resin. The sink itself has a textured feel that can complement stone beautifully if chosen wisely. Although most of these sinks come with an extended warranty, they are expensive and bulky, which dissuades many buyers. It also takes a keen eye to ensure a good match between the sink finish and countertop material. These are by far our least popular sinks. That does not mean, however, that they might not be perfect for your home. More information can be found at (www.blancoamerica.com).
Cast Iron – These sinks are enjoying a bit of a renaissance as people who want something different then stainless steel discover the benefits of this finish. It is virtually indestructible, available in dozens of colors and configurations, and is warranted very strongly. Cast iron, however, is immensely heavy, and does require additional charges for installation. Brackets will need to be attached to the side of your cabinets to support the weight as our standard in stone clips would rip out in moments. These sinks are available in both undermount and drop in varieties and should be considered for anyone looking to make an impact with their sink choice. More information can be found at (www.kohler.com).
Stainless Steel – This finish represents the vast majority of all sink installations due to several distinct advantages. It is easy to install, inexpensive, extremely durable, and an easy match to the faucet and other accessories. Beware the truly inexpensive brands as they can rust after a few years, but generally any 18 gauge stainless sink will work. Additional gauges can be considered, but thinner begins to get dangerous, and thicker is generally a waste of money. Pay special attention to noise cancelling construction so that they are not loud in your home. We stock Kohler Sterling under-mounts in five varieties, and they are very inexpensive and reliable. More information can be found at (www.sterlingplumbing.com).
One of the most frequent things we hear is a request for a deep sink. This is the legacy of those horrific 4” deep drop in stainless steel sinks we all had with Formica tops for years. If you stacked two plates in the bottom, it was full. More, however, is not necessarily better. The sweet spot for most users is somewhere between 7 and 8 inches. With the thickness of the stone, this puts the total depth around 9”. Look under your existing countertop to the top of the cabinet. Measure down from there 9” and place a piece of tape on the side of the cabinet. Try bending over and hold your hands there for 60 seconds. We spend most of our time working at the bottom of a sink, and this depth may be too much for your back already. Find a measurement from that cabinet top that is comfortable to work at, and that is the depth you need. This may be less than you think.
So you have chosen a material and a depth. Great. Now how wide can it be? Generally, you need to measure the inside of your sink cabinet, subtract 2” from this, and that is what size the overall sink can be. We need this inch of space on each side of the sink to install our clips and attach the bowl. Exceptions can be made for us to use the sink cabinet to support the bowl, but this should only be done on a case by case basis. In this situation, you could theoretically go up to the point where the bowl does not physically fit into the cabinet. Please remember to measure the inside of the cabinet, not the overall outside dimension. Again, however, bigger is not always better. Counter space is very important, and often an overly wide sink can look out of place if this is taken too far.
The last piece of the puzzle is which shape your bowl should take. Generally, we recommend single bowls for people who use the dishwasher for almost everything, and double bowls for people that frequently rinse or wash their dishes by hand. If you rarely wash your own dishes, a double bowl will just give you two bowls to clean every night for the price of one. You also then end up with the disposal on one and not the other. Single bowls allow this user the most flexibility. In either case, you will need to decide on which shape fits your needs the best. When you do dishes this evening in your existing sink, try to imagine the different shapes and what would work best.
Keep in mind that the shape of your sink will determine which type of faucet you can purchase and where it will be located. On a standard rectangular sink, the faucet can be centered behind the bowl. On a ‘D’ shape sink, it will be pushed off to either the left or the right corner and will require a ‘single hole’ type faucet. Offset sinks, where one bowl is deeper front to back than the other, will also require this single hole configuration. With double bowl sinks, you also need to ensure that the faucet reaches both drains adequately. Bar sinks and island sinks tend to have the drain closer to the edge as smaller faucets are traditionally used in these areas.
This should be a fun process. We have the basic tried and true versions, but there are many more to choose from that we will happily order for you upon request. We have relationships with every manufacturer in America, and look forward to finding the perfect fit for you and your life. And this was just the sink. Faucets and soap dispensers are next!
Can I keep my existing tile backsplash?
In many cases with countertop replacements, we are asked if the existing tile backsplash can be reused. The simple answer is yes, but with a few qualifications.
Granite or engineered stones are primarily 1.25″ thick. Laminate countertops, the kind we replace most, are 1.5″ thick. Upon replacement, this will then leave a 1/4″ reveal between the bottom of the tile backsplash and the top of the new countertop. Here are the best ways to handle the gap in order of preference.
- If you have any of the grout leftover from the original tile installation, or if it is a simple color to match like white or almond, simply clean away the dirty caulked area and re-grout the gap at the bottom. This will make the gap look intentional and professional and in most cases match the size of the grout lines elsewhere.
- Purchase a tube of colored caulk to match your grout color and caulk the gap between the two materials. It will be 1/4″ thick instead of 1/8″ as normal, but this difference is barely noticeable unless you are looking for it.
- Purchase and install some form of trim to match the tile or countertops at a local tile store such as Mosaic Tile. (www.mosaictileco.com)
- Ask Granite Source to measure, fabricate and install a 4″ granite backsplash and just install it over the tile. Once it is caulked in, it will look very normal.
- Hire a handyman to be on the job at the time of our installation to install 1/4″ plywood on top of the cabinets before we install our stone. Please note that this option will leave a 1/4″ strip of unfinished material around the edges.
- Shim up the countertops from below during installation. This is the lest preferred option because in the long term the shims will inevitably shift exposing the stone to seam separation and breakage.
If you do decide to remove all of your tile, this will need to be done prior to final measurement as this often involves complete replacement of the drywall which will change our dimensions.
Please see your Account Manager or call the office at any time if you would like to discuss your options further.
How much overhang can my countertop have?
There are many places where extra overhang can add to the form and function of your countertop. Bar seating areas, peninsulas, pass through shelves and raised surfaces. We are frequently asked how much overhang a particular material is able to sustain safely.
The answer lies in a combination of physics and liability.
First a couple of notes:
- Your countertop cannot be glued down. Glue dries over time and will eventually separate. Probably at a very inopportune moment of stress on the material which will result in catastrophic failure causing damage to the environment or personal injury.
- Mechanical fasteners are not useful in this application because they will become worn over time with constant friction and bumping, resulting in a similar failure.
- The only way to properly support overhang is to support it.
Physics: Gravity will pull anything down that extends farther then the portion that is supported. In other words, if you have a 12″ bar cabinet and put a 12″ overhang on it, the top will fall off. Once you get south of this 50/50 rule, it is a matter of comfort. I recommend to people that they take a coffee table book and play with percentages by seeing how much downward pressure is required on the overhang portion to lift up the supported area. If is too easy with a coffee table book, it is dangerous with granite. For those that like to organize life into tidy formulas, we generally look at anything with an overhang of more then 50% of the supported area as questionable. So if you have 12″ supported on that bar cabinet, the most you would want to consider having as unsupported overhang would be 6″. Not an absolute rule, but hopefully a useful guide.
Liability: Our friend Mr. Murphy tells us to beware of complacency, and in this case where the potential is a piece of heavy stone falling from 42″ or more, this advice takes on special meaning. The reality is that stone can fracture and fail. It is EXTREMELY unlikely, but it is possible. So in this situation, we always prefer more support over less. Almost any building supply company or big box store will have some great options with corbels to stain or paint. If you are a homeowner reading this, you are free to push the boundaries as far as you dare. If you are a contractor or builder, we recommend building in support and crossing it off the worry list.
Please note that steel rods added to the stone will not protect against this risk of failure. They will hold the stone together for a time after it fractures, but the fracture itself will then become the issue for the homeowner and daily use. And eventually, the glue around the steel rod will come loose as well completing the failure.
What kind of options are available for surfaces today?
In today’s market, there are four basic material choices for kitchen countertops. Laminate, Solid Surface, Hard Surfaces and Recycled. Each one has merits depending upon the particular application.
Laminate, also commonly referred to as Formica, is plywood with a thin compressed wood and plastic veneer. Most of us have lived in a home with these countertops, and for the price, they perform very well. Average materials installed will be under one thousand dollars and can be expected to last up to fifteen years if well maintained. Common complaints are that the seams separate and start to peel up and that the edge lamination comes unglued over time. All in all, however, these products offer tremendous value. In a resale situation, however, laminate tops will be considered a liability to homebuyers who are comparison shopping similar units.
Solid Surface, also commonly referred to as Corian, is plastics and particulates that have been melted together to form a very durable countertop that can look ‘seamless’ once the product is installed and the pieces melted together. There is a huge selection of colors and finishes, and installation is relatively painless and mess free. The biggest problem with these countertops today is that they are the same price as hard surface options, and simply do not hold up as well or increase the home value. Not necessarily a liability on the re-sale market if neutral in color and in good condition, you will still not see it listed in the property description as a benefit.
Hard Surfaces make up the vast majority of new installations in the Metro DC market today, and are primarily split between granite and engineered stone. Granite is removed from the ground and polished with no additives or manufacturing. Engineered stones such as Silestone, Caeserstone, Zodiaq and Cambria are mostly granite dust mixed with additives and particulates to create the particular color and look that the manufacturer was trying to achieve. There is a lot of hysteria about granite staining and having to be sealed, but this is mostly limited to a few of the less dense varietals, and will not impact the average buyer in a meaningful way. The choice between the two should really be about color and the environment in which you are installing the stone, and the way each will complement the overall kitchen or space design. Traditionally we advise people that there is a clear difference between natural materials and engineered, and that this should be the basis of their search. Natural materials tend to blend in better and more easily become a long term part of your home, whereas the engineered materials need to be a part of a look that you are trying to achieve as they will not have the long term appeal of something with natural variation. In either case, they both make excellent choices for kitchens, bathrooms and any other high traffic area of your home.
Recycled materials are the least popular choice currently due to their prohibitive cost and dubious ecological value, but smart manufacturers are slowly beginning to offer more intelligent products that we will be excited to bring to market. The key here is to do your homework and not get caught up on the sales pitch. The Prius for example is a great car, but by the time it is manufactured with those batteries, it is said to do more damage to the environment then a Land Rover. We still need the Prius to advance the technology, but the timing for your purchase is up to the individual buyer. We currently offer several recycled paper and glass countertop options that can be a beautiful addition to a more modern kitchen, with many more options on the way such as bamboo, grass, recycled plastic and wood. Brand names to research would be Frita Glass, Paperstone and Richlite.
Whichever material you choose, there are three basic things to consider. Initial cost, residual value and personal enjoyment. If you can hit all three of these in the same material, your investment will pay dividends for you in the long term. And do not wait until you put your home on the market to make the change, you deserve to enjoy your new countertops yourselves for a few years first!
How will you attach my dishwasher?
Dishwashers will tip forward when opened if not attached to the opening securely. This attachment is important as it stops the machine from being jostled or vibrating unnecessarily during normal operation. The attachment point should be rigid but also allow for the machine to be easily removed in case of maintenance or replacement.
Prior to the explosion of granite and engineered stone countertops, all dishwashers were attached by screwing top mounted brackets up and into the laminate or Corian countertop. This was simple, and worked well for almost all machines. With granite or engineered stone, however, you are unable to screw up into the stone. Although technically possible, it is a very bad idea for the following reasons.
- It will vibrate the stone and cause seams to separate, sinks and faucets to loosen and eventually fail completely.
- The holes in the stone will weaken the countertop at an area that is already without support.
- It makes it difficult for the average homeowner to switch dishwashers down the line and replace the fittings.
This is why most modern dishwashers come with side clips or attachment points so that the machine can be screwed to the cabinetry thus allowing the vibrations to be absorbed by the wood and not the stone.
If your dishwasher does not have these clips or holes, please let your account manager know and we will provide a dishwasher bracket that is mounted to the cabinetry at the top of the opening. This will achieve the same goal without modification of the dishwasher itself.
Which decisions will I need to make at measurement??
While the number of things to select can seem overwhelming, they are all important and you should not feel rushed into selecting something you have not had time to research. Here is a basic list of things we will ask you about so that you can consider as many of them as possible up front. Keep in mind that we do this for a living, and will be able to help guide you on all of these when the time comes with as much or as little information as you need.
- Dishwasher Bracket
Our measurers are also very good at discussing these things with you during your appointment if you need additional information.
After you approve your contract and submit your down payment, installation normally occurs within 7-10 business days.
Will you warranty my countertop against stains?
We are proud to partner with a company based out of Atlanta to offer an optional 15 year warranty on most granite colors. We can even add this to your existing installation. Please contact our office at 703 961 9557 if you would like to add this to your order. Pricing is based on the square footage and a slight surcharge may apply to install it in the field.
Here is some text from their website:
HydroShield Granite Protection comes with a 15 year warranty. We are a locally owned and operated business. We stand behind every application that we do. If you have a question or concern, you call a local number and speak to a real person, not a toll-free number where you sit on hold and hope for a solution. We have technicians that come to you and provide superior customer service.
Here is a copy of our general warranty that does not cover staining.
GRANITE SOURCE INC WARRANTY
1. GRANITE SOURCE, INC. (GSI) warrants to the customer for a period of twelve (12) months from the date
of final delivery of goods and services that the product and installation services it provides shall be free
from defects in material and workmanship under normal use and service, IF, BUT ONLY IF:
a. The product and/or installation specifications are set forth in a written contract signed by
GSI and the customer;
b. The customer does not hinder GSI from delivering product or performing services in conformity
with the contract;
c. The deliverables have not been subject to any unauthorized modification, accident, neglect,
misuse, movement of location, tampering, failure of supporting structures, or any event other
than ordinary use; and
d. The deliverables have not been subject to conditions more severe or otherwise exceeding those set
forth in the contract specification (if such conditions are specified in the contract).
2. GSI’s sole obligation and Customer’s sole remedy for any failure of performance is limited to the adjustment
or replacement of any uninstalled product (free of charge, F.O.B. point of fabrication) or of any part of the
installation which examination shall disclose to GSI’s satisfaction to be defective or, at GSI’s option, refund
or adjustment of the purchase price IF, BUT ONLY IF:
a. The customer notes GSI by certified mail, return receipt requested, of such breach of warranty, within 30
days after the discovery thereof, otherwise such claim is waived; (However, without limitation on the
foregoing, any alleged defect discovered more than one year after installation is excluded from warranty.)
b. No attempted alteration or repair of the product or its installation has been made without GSI’s written
c. The product is inspected by the customer or representative upon arrival at the project site for visible
defects, and complaints relating thereto are filed in writing immediately with GSI before installation.
3. Natural variations in the color, shading, width, dimensions, texture, shape, finish, consistency, or durability of
natural products shall not be considered defects for purposes of this Limited Warranty. GSI is not responsible
for the appearance, quality, or effect of finishes applied by third parties. If repairs or replacement are
deemed necessary under the terms of your warranty, GSI will try to find the closest lot match possible, but
cannot guarantee color matches.
4. GSI does not warranty its product or installation to any safety, building, or other code of any state, municipality
or other jurisdiction unless the terms of such code are specifically incorporated into GSI’s written contract
with the customer. Except for this warranty by GSI, the customer assumes all risk and liability for the use
of such product, whether alone or in combination with other building materials.
5. THIS WARRANTY IS EXPRESSLY IN LIEU OF ALL OTHER WARRANTIES, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED,
INCLUDING ANY IMPLIED WARRANTY OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR A PATICULAR
PURPOSE. GSI SHALL NOT BE LIABLE UNDER THIS WARRANTY FOR ANY OTHER LOSS OR DAMAGE
INCLUDING WITHOUT LIMITATION, CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGE, SAFETY PROBLEMS, OR
PERSONAL INJURY RESULTING DIRECTLY OR INDIRECTLY FROM THE PURCHASE, OTHER
ACQUISITION, USE, OR LOSS OF THE PRODUCT, EXCEPT AS EXPRESSLY SET FORTH HEREIN.
6. No statement by GSI’s employee or agent directly or indirectly admitting liability under this warranty shall
be binding against GSI unless
a. Made in writing; and
b. Made by a representative of GSI authorized to do so.
Does my stone need to have metal added underneath for support?
For those of you fortunate enough to have avoided this issue on your jobsites, rodding is a process where a small slit is routed out of the stone countertop underneath the weakest portions, and a rectangular strip of metal is inserted and sealed in place with a polyester resin. The concept is that the metal strip adds rigidity to the stone and prevents the most stress prone areas such as sink and cooktop cutouts from failing.
So when is rodding necessary? And is your countertop not fabricated to the highest standards if it is not rodded? The answer is complicated and must take into account that in the process of rodding, we are removing some of the thickness and strength of the original material. The final decision will be based on a combination of our experience with your particular material and the particular layout of your project.
Our experience with the tens of thousands of rods we have installed is the following. Rodding saves us money in the long term and is not considered an expense but rather a normal part of quality fabrication. Rodding does decrease the likelihood of sudden and catastrophic failures during the transport of and installation of stone countertops. Rodding will not stop a stone from cracking if enough pressure is applied such as a cleaning crew standing on the cooktop bridge areas. It will, however, stop it from separating and allow us to effect a more efficient repair if required. Rodding is not useful in the more dense materials with less movement. Overall rodding is here to stay and we encourage your feedback and personal experiences to help us continue to improve the process.
Is Soapstone a good choice for my home?
One countertop material often overlooked when designing or remodeling a kitchen or bathroom is soapstone. While soapstone is not for everyone or for every design, this natural stone possesses several advantages that make it a viable competitor of more traditional countertop materials, such as granite, laminates and solid surface. Soapstone is chemically inert, resistant to heat and durable. These qualities, combined with its beauty and ease of care, have made it the countertop material of choice for many gourmet chefs and some of the top kitchen designers in the world.
What Is Soapstone?
Soapstone, also known as steatite, is a quarried stone composed primarily of talc, silicate, chlorite and magnesium. Most soapstone deposits were formed from 300 to 400 million years ago, and they can be found throughout the world. The name soapstone is derived from the fact that the talc in the stone makes it soft to the touch, similar to that of a dry bar of soap. The talc content in architectural soapstone ranges from
50 to 75 percent, making it soft and smooth. However, the other minerals in the composition lend the stone its strength and durability.
Soapstone is a metamorphic rock that was formed by millions of years of fluctuating heat and pressure combined with the infusion of mineral-rich water and other liquids. It has been quarried and used for thousands of years throughout the world. Major distribution centers in the ancient world were known to have existed in what are now India and Iran. Today, the most productive soapstone quarries are located in the United States, Brazil, Finland and India.
Several natural properties of Soapstone make it suitable for use as a countertop surface. Besides being relatively easy to quarry and Fabricate, it is resistant to heat and chemical reactions. In fact, soapstone is often used for casting metals,such as lead, pewter and silver. It has also been used traditionally for cooking pots and tobacco pipes. Soapstone is nonporous, which makes it stain-resistant and limits the ability of microbes to penetrate the surface.
Soapstone is a very attractive stone, but it is limited in color. It is light gray in color, but it can have either a green or blue tint. It has considerable veining, which provides for a wide variety of grains or patterns. Soapstone naturally darkens with age and use, even though substances cannot penetrate beyond the surface. This natural darkening occurs at different rates bacross a slab, so for aesthetic purposes, mineral oil or wax is applied to make the darkening process spread evenly throughout the surface.
Although soapstone is not as strong as some other countertop surfaces, it can easily last a lifetime with the proper care. The edges may soften, and scratches or nicks may develop with use, but most of these can be removed with only a light sanding.
Soapstone has a wide range of practical applications in the modern home. It is primarily found in the kitchen, which coincides with its historical uses as cookware and stone cooking slabs. The ability of soapstone to resist heat has continued to make the material popular in both gourmet and working kitchens as a countertop surface. Fabricators like working with soapstone because of the ease in which it can be cut, while consumers enjoy soapstone for its aesthetic value and durability. Soapstone countertops not only resist heat damage, but their appearance and integrity is upheld through their resistance to both acidic and alkaline chemical etching. It naturally has a matte or honed finish so end users do not have to worry about fingerprints or drip marks showing. And, because soapstone is nonporous, it is weatherproof, which makes it popular as a countertop surface for outdoor kitchens as well.
Soapstone is not only used in kitchens as a countertop surface, but it is also used as a material for upscale kitchen sinks. This use extends to the bathroom, where soapstone can be used for vanities and as tub surrounds. Soapstone may also be set vertically or tiled onto shower walls. Some architects have also found that soapstone tiles work well for bathroom flooring because of their water resistance and high traction. Because it has a low heat conductivity, soapstone is not as cold in the winter as many other types of tile flooring.
Other popular uses of soapstone in the home include fireplace and wood-burning stove surrounds. When used as a firebrick, it can absorb great amounts of heat, which it will softly radiate for several hours.
One final use of soapstone in homes is as any sort of decorative basin. Soapstone is commonly used for indoor or outdoor planters, birdbaths and garden fountains.
Besides its use in homes, soapstone also has several commercial applications. Soapstone has been used for decades in laboratory countertops and tabletops because of its chemical etching resistance. Its high durability makes it useful wherever a hard surface is required.
Is marble appropriate for a kitchen countertop?
Many of our clients like the patterns and warmth of marble, travertine, limestone and other similar materials, but are uncertain as to whether it would make a reliable surfacing option for their heavily used kitchen countertops. The simple answer is yes, but it comes with a few caveats.
The enormous popularity of granite and engineered stone countertops today is primarily the result of two related developments. First, the surface treatment that seals the stone and creates a flat and evenly polished surface was improved to the point of it becoming a maintenance free installation in almost all cases. Secondly, the technology to quarry, produce and fabricate the slabs improved in parallel to the surface finishing and allowed the landed material pricing to drop dramatically as massive international stone companies began competing for market share.
Marbles have enjoyed the same economies in quarrying and fabrication, but the finishing remains unchanged from the previous century. For the homeowner this means that depending on the material choice, they should expect the products to be porous, sensitive to citrus etching and very likely to show scratches, impact marks and other normal wear and use aging characteristics.
So does this mean that you should not use them? Possibly. If you are looking for a material that will require no maintenance and be trouble free in an environment of multiple users with varying degrees of inherent caution and sensitivity, this will most likely not be a great fit. If, however, you are comfortable with a basic amount of upkeep and are normally careful with other surfaces in your home, there would be no reason to not consider these materials. Most homes contain wood dining room tables and coffee tables that have similar use restrictions but still enjoy long lives. Very few people would be willing to change out those wood tables for plastic or metal versions simply to decrease the possibility of a scratch, stain or other imperfection. These are normal for a natural material and with stone and wood, continued cleaning and use will eventually create a natural ‘patina’ that will have a warmth and personality hard to find in other polished and safer alternatives.
Used in the correct location with the correct expectations, a nice piece of marble can transform a home or restaurant.
Almost all marbles are quarried in 3/4″ slabs, and a lot of them are quarried in 1 1/4″ slabs as well. Pricing is similar, so this will be more of an availability and aesthetic question then a cost based process. Slabs do tend to be smaller, so additional seams may be required if you have a large kitchen.
Edge detail selection is crucial on marble as is matching up the veining at seams and other breaks. Take the time to get it right and work with a fabricator who understands the materials. The tooling and seams need to be done with marble specific products in order to achieve the best results.
How do I remove a stain?
Spills and Stains
Blot the spill with a paper towel immediately. Don’t wipe the area, it will spread the spill. Flush the area with plain water and mild soap and rinse several times. Dry the area thoroughly with a soft cloth. Repeat as necessary. If the stain remains, refer to the section in this brochure on stain removal.
Identifying the type of stain on the stone surface is the key to removing it. If you don’t know what caused the stain, play detective. Where is the stain located? Is it near a plant, a food service area, an area where cosmetics are used? What color is it? What is the shape or pattern? What goes on in the area around the stain? Surface stains can often be removed by cleaning with an appropriate cleaning product or household chemical. Deep-seated or stubborn stains may require using a poultice or calling in a professional. The following sections describe the types of stains that you may have to deal with and appropriate household chemicals to use and how to prepare and apply a poultice to remove the stain.
Types of Stains and First Step Cleaning Actions
(grease, tar, cooking oil, milk, cosmetics)
An oil-based stain will darken the stone and normally must be chemically dissolved so the source of the stain can be flushed or rinsed away. Clean gently with a soft, liquid cleanser with bleach OR household detergent OR ammonia OR mineral spirits OR acetone.
(coffee, tea, fruit, tobacco, paper, food, urine, leaves, bark, bird droppings) May cause a pinkish-brown stain and may disappear after the source of the stain has been removed. Outdoors, with the sources removed, normal sun and rain action will generally bleach out the stains. Indoors, clean with12% hydrogen peroxide (hair bleaching strength) and a few drops of ammonia.
(iron, rust, copper, bronze)
Iron or rust stains are orange to brown in color and follow the shape of the staining object such as nails, bolts, screws, cans, flower pots, metal furniture. Copper and bronze stains appear as green or muddy-brown and result from the action of moisture on nearby or embedded bronze, copper or brass items. Metal stains must be removed with a poultice.(See section on Making & Using a Poultice) Deep-seated, rusty stains are extremely difficult to remove and the stone may be permanently stained.
(algae, mildew, lichens, moss, fungi)
Clean with diluted (1/2 cup in a gallon of water) ammonia OR bleach OR hydrogen peroxide. DO NOT MIX BLEACH ANDAMMONIA! THIS COMBINATION CREATES A TOXIC AND LETHAL GAS!
(magic marker, pen, ink)
Clean with bleach or hydrogen peroxide (light colored stone only!) or lacquer thinner or acetone (dark stones only!)
Small amounts can be removed with lacquer thinner or scraped off carefully with a razorblade. Heavy paint coverage should be removed only with a commercial “heavy liquid” paint stripper available from hardware stores and paint centers. These strippers normally contain caustic soda or lye. Do not use acids or flame tools to strip paint from stone. Paint strippers can etch the surface of the stone; re-polishing may be necessary. Follow the manufacturer’s directions for use of these products, taking care to flush the area thoroughly with clean water. Protect yourself with rubber gloves and eye protection, and work in a well-ventilated area. Use only wood or plastic scrapers for removing the sludge and curdled paint. Normally, latex and acrylic paints will not cause staining. Oil-based paints, linseed oil, putty, caulks and sealants may cause oily stains. Refer to the section on oil-based stains.
WATER SPOTS AND RINGS
(surface accumulation of hard water)
Buff with dry 0000 steel wool.
FIRE AND SMOKE DAMAGE
Older stones and smoke or fire stained fireplaces may require a thorough cleaning to restore their original appearance. Commercially available “smoke removers” may save time and effort.
Etch marks are caused by acids left on the surface of the stone. Some materials will etch the finish but not leave a stain. Others will both etch and stain. Once the stain has been removed, wet the surface with clear water and sprinkle on marble polishing powder, available from a hardware or lapidary store, or your local stone dealer. Rub the powder onto the stone with a damp cloth or by using a buffing pad with a low-speed power drill. Continue buffing until the etch mark disappears and the marble surface shines. Contact your stone dealer or call a professional stone restorer for refinishing or re-polishing etched areas that you cannot remove.
Efflorescence is a white powder that may appear on the surface of the stone. It is caused by water carrying mineral salts from below the surface of the stone rising through the stone and evaporating. When the water evaporates, it leaves the powdery substance. If the installation is new, dust mop or vacuum the powder. You may have to do this several times as the stone dries out. Do not use water to remove the powder; it will only temporarily disappear. If the problem persists, contact your installer to help identify and remove the cause of the moisture.
SCRATCHES AND NICKS
Slight surface scratches may be buffed with dry 0000 steel wool. Deeper scratches and nicks in the surface of the stone should be repaired and re-polished by a professional.
Making and Using a Poultice
A poultice is a liquid cleaner or chemical mixed with a white absorbent material to form a paste about the consistency of peanut butter. The poultice is spread over the stained area to a thickness of about 1/4 to 1/2 inch with a wood or plastic spatula, covered with plastic and left to work for 24 to 48 hours. The liquid cleaner or chemical will draw out the stain into the absorbent material. Poultice procedures may have to be repeated to thoroughly remove a stain, but some stains may never be completely removed.
Poultice materials include kaolin, fuller’s earth, whiting, diatomaceous earth, powdered chalk, white molding plaster or talc. Approximately one pound of prepared poultice material will cover one square foot. Do not use whiting or iron-type clays such as fuller’s earth with acid chemicals. The reaction will cancel the effect of the poultice. A poultice can also be prepared using white cotton balls, whitepaper towels or gauze pads.
Cleaning Agents or Chemicals
Poultice with baking soda and water OR one of the powdered poultice materials and mineral spirits.
Poultice with one of the powdered poultice materials and 12% hydrogen peroxide solution (hair bleaching strength) OR use acetone instead of the hydrogen peroxide.
Poultice with diatomaceous earth and a commercially available rust remover. Rust stains are particularly difficult to remove. You may need to call a professional.
Poultice with one of the powdered poultice materials and ammonia. These stains are difficult to remove. You may need to call a professional.
Poultice with dilute ammonia OR bleach OR hydrogen peroxide. DO NOT MIX AMMO-NIA AND BLEACH! THIS COMBINATIONCREATES A TOXIC AND LETHAL GAS!
Applying the Poultice
Prepare the poultice. If using powder, mix the cleaning agent or chemical to a thick paste the consistency of peanut butter. If using paper, soak in the chemical and let drain. Don’t let the liquid drip.
Wet the stained area with distilled water.
Apply the poultice to the stained area about1/4 to 1/2 inch thick and extend the poultice beyond the stained area by about one inch. Use a wood or plastic scraper to spread the poultice evenly.
Cover the poultice with plastic and tape the edges to seal it.
Allow the poultice to dry thoroughly, usually about 24 to 48 hours. The drying process is what pulls the stain out of the stone and into the poultice material. After about 24 hours, remove the plastic and allow the poultice to dry.
Remove the poultice from the stain. Rinse with distilled water and buff dry with a soft cloth. Use the wood or plastic scraper if necessary.
Repeat the poultice application if the stain is not removed. It may take up to five applications for difficult stains.
If the surface is etched by the chemical, apply polishing powder and buff with burlap or felt buffing pad to restore the surface.
INFORMATION COURTESY OF THE MARBLE INSTITUTE OF AMERICA
How do I care for my natural stone countertops?
Get to Know Your Stone
The first step in proper stone care and maintenance is to understand your stone’s geological classification and composition. this information will help you to identify what cleaning products to use and how best to care for your natural stone.
Natural stone is categorized into three basic geological classifications by their respective formation processes: Sedimentary, Metamorphic and igneous. Additionally, stones in each category can be either Calcareous or Siliceous.
Calcareous stone is composed mainly of calcium carbonate, a chemical compound commonly found in natural stone, shells and pearls. Calcium Carbonate is sensitive to acidic solutions so mild, non-acidic cleaners are recommended.
Siliceous stone, as the term implies, is one composed primarily of silicates, such as quartz, feldspar, mica, etc. as such, a siliceous stone is generally resistant to most acids found in kitchen settings, although acidic cleaners are still not recommended, as these stones may contain trace levels of minerals that are acid sensitive.
To get the longest life and preserve the beauty of your natural stone, follow these simple tips:
Coasters: Use coasters under all glasses, particularly those containing alcohol or citrus juices.
Trivets: While many stones can withstand heat, the use of trivets or mats is recommended.
Dust Mopping: Dust mop interior floors frequently using a clean non-treated dry dust mop. Sand, dirt and grit are abrasive and can damage natural stone.
Mats/rugs: Mats or area rugs inside and outside an entrance will help to minimize the sand, dirt and grit that may scratch the stone floor. Be sure that the underside of the mat or rug is a slip resistant surface.
Vacuum cleaners: If used, be sure the metal or plastic attachments or the wheels are not worn as they can scratch the surface of some stones.
Spills: Blot the spill with a paper towel immediately. Don’t wipe the area, it will spread the spill. Flush the area with water and mild soap and rinse several times. Dry the area thoroughly with a soft cloth. Repeat as necessary.
- Clean stone surfaces with a neutral cleaner, stone soap, or a mild liquid dishwashing detergent and warm water.
- Similar to any item cleaned in your home, an excessive concentration of cleaner or soap may leave a film and cause streaks. Follow manufacturer recommendations.
- Use a clean rag mop on floors and a soft cloth for other surfaces for best results.
- Rinse the surface thoroughly after washing with the soap solution and dry with a soft cloth.
- Change the rinse water frequently.
- In the bath or other wet areas, soap scum can be minimized by using a squeegee after each use. To remove soap scum, use a non-acidic soap scum remover or a solution of ammonia and water (about 1/2 cup ammonia to a gallon of water). Frequent or over-use of an ammonia solution may eventually dull the surface of some stone types.
- In outdoor pool, patio or hot tub areas, flush with clear water and use mild bleach solution to remove algae or moss.
- Many suppliers offer products used for stone cleaning.
- Products containing lemon, vinegar or other acids may dull or etch calcareous stones.
- Scouring powders or creams often contain abrasives that may scratch certain stones.
- Many commercially available rust removers (laundry rust stain removers, toilet bowl cleaners) contain trace levels of hydrofluoric acid (HF). This acid attacks silicates in addition to other minerals. All stones, including granite and quartzite, will be attacked if exposed to HF.
- Do not mix ammonia and bleach. This combination creates a toxic and lethal gas.
Sealing is a common step taken on some stones as an extra precaution against staining. In fact, the sealing products used in the stone industry are ‘impregnators” which do not actually seal the stone, but more correctly act as a repellent rather than a sealer. Sealing does not make the stone stain proof, rather it makes the stone more stain resistant. When consulting with your stone supplier, you may find that many stones do not require sealing. However, applying an impregnating sealer is a common practice.
When considering sealing, remember that sealing the stone does not make the stone stain proof, it makes it more resistant to staining.
If a sealer is applied in a food preparation area, be sure that it is non-toxic and safe for use.
Consult with your supplier or sealing manufacturer specific to the type of sealer and frequency of use recommended.
Stain Identification Tips
Identifying the type of stain on the stone surface is the key to removing it. Stains can be oil based, organic, metallic, biological, ink based, paint based, acid based. If you don’t know what caused the stain, consider likely staining agents that may have been present. Here are some questions you consider:
Where is the Stain Located?
- Is it near a plant, a food service area, an area where cosmetics are used?
- What color is it?
- What is the shape or pattern?
- What occurs in the area around the stain?
Stain Removal Steps
Surface stains can often be removed by cleaning with an appropriate cleaning product or household chemical.
What Type of Stain is It?
The following sections describe the types of stains you may have to deal with and the appropriate household chemicals to use and how to prepare and apply a poultice to remove the stain.
(grease, plumbers’ putty, tar, cooking oil, milk, cosmetics)
An oil-based stain will darken the stone and normally must be chemically dissolved so the source of the stain can be flushed or rinsed away. Clean gently with a soft, liquid cleanser with one of the following: household detergent, mineral spirits, or acetone.
(coffee, tea, wine, fruit, tobacco, paper, food, urine, leaves, bark, bird droppings)
May cause a pinkish-brown stain and may disappear after the source of the stain has been removed. Outdoors, with the sources removed, sun and rain action will generally bleach out the stains. Indoors, clean with 12% hydrogen peroxide (hair bleaching strength) and a few drops of ammonia.
(iron, rust, copper, bronze)
Iron or rust stains are orange to brown in color and follow the shape of the staining object such as nails, bolts, screws, cans, flower pots, metal furniture. Copper and bronze stains appear as green or muddy-brown and result from the action of moisture on nearby or embedded bronze, copper or brass items. Metal stains must be removed with a poultice. (See website on Using a Poultice –
www.marble-institute.com/consumers/poultices.cfm. Deep-seated, rustystains are extremely difficult to remove and the stone may be permanently stained.
(algae, mildew, lichens, moss, fungi)
Clean with diluted cleaning solution. Use a 1/2 cup of any of the following: ammonia, bleach, or hydrogen peroxide and a gallon of water. Reminder: do not mix bleach and ammonia.
(magic marker, pen, ink)
On light colored stones, clean with bleach or hydrogen peroxide. On dark colored stones, clean with lacquer thinner or acetone.
Small amounts can be removed with lacquer thinner or scraped off carefully with a razor blade. Heavy paint coverage should be removed only with a commercial “heavy liquid” paint stripper available from hardware stores and paint centers. These strippers normally contain caustic soda or lye. Do not use acids or flame tools to strip paint from stone. Paint strippers can etch the surface of the stone; repolishing may be necessary. Follow the manufacturer’s directions for use of these products, and flush the area thoroughly with clean water. Protect yourself with rubber gloves and eye protection, and work in a well-ventilated area. Use only wood or plastic scrapers for removing the sludge and curdled paint. Normally, latex and acrylic paints will not cause staining. Oil-based paints, linseed oil, putty, caulks and sealants may cause oily stains. Refer to the section on oil-based stains.
Water Spots and Rings
(surface accumulation of hard water)
Buff with dry 0000 steel wool.
Fire and Smoke Damage
Older stones and smoke or firestained fireplaces may require a thorough cleaning. When the smoke is removed, there may also be some etching (due to carbonic & other acids in smoke). Commercially available “smoke removers” may save time and effort.
(caused by acids left on the surface of the stone)
Some materials will etch the finish but not leave a stain. Others will both etch and stain. Contact your stone dealer or call a professional stone restorer for refinishing or repolishing etched areas.
(a white powder that may appear on the surface of the stone)
It is caused by the deposition of mineral salts carried by water from below the surface of the stone. When the water evaporates, it leaves the powdery substance. If the installation is new, dust mop or vacuum the powder. You may have to do this several times as the stone dries out. Do not use water to remove the powder; it will only temporarily disappear. If the problem persists, contact your installer to help identify and remove the cause of the moisture.
Scratches and Nicks
Slight surface scratches may be buffed with dry 0000 steel wool. Deeper scratches and nicks in the surface of the stone should be repaired and repolished by a professional.
Using a Poultice
Go to www.marble-institute.com/consumers/poultices.cfm for more information, or call a stone professional (recommended).
Natural Stone Easy to Clean and Maintain!
Call your professional stone supplier, installer or a restoration specialist for problems that appear too difficult to handle.
INFORMATION COURTESY OF THE MARBLE INSTITUTE OF AMERICA
May I use my existing sink and faucet?
A: Absolutely. It is common with natural stone countertops to use an under-mount bowl to maximize the beauty of your countertop and provide a seamless look. Single hole faucets are also used to minimize clutter and maximize utility. Granite Source stocks a large selection of these options and we may also use any other sink or faucet of your choice that you may provide. If, however, you wish to re-use your existing plumbing, please simply inform the estimator upon measurement. Please note there is no additional connection charge when you use our plumber if you wish to switch out your disposal at the same time.
Who removes my existing countertops and plumbing?
A: Whether you live in Short Pump, Glen Allen, Ashland or around the Richmond VA area, Central Virginia from Newport News to Charlottesville, Fredericksburg to Richmond, and the surrounding regions. Granite Source is pleased to offer a demolition service which includes removal and disposal of the existing countertops for a nominal fee. We also have a plumber on staff should you wish to have us disconnect and reconnect your plumbing fixtures. In addition, sink-plumbing-faucet packages are on special every month to facilitate the job evolution and minimize your time commitment. Please call our office at any time to receive information on current specials.
How many seams will I have?
A: Granite Source does not limit seam placement in any way. You may have as few or as many as you wish. In general, seams will always be visible, but should be no larger than one-eighth of an inch. The special epoxy used will eventually wear down to blend in with the stone and become harder than even the surrounding stone, providing a long lasting secure joint.
Excellent job...all my friends say the granite is very nice. We are most happy we chose your company to do the work. Will highly recommend you folks, thanks, especially to Sue.
Our company has used Granite Source on a number of high profile projects: most notable are the Navy Federal Credit Unions. They have performed exceptionally well in all cases. They show pride and professionalism in each project. Our company’s “can do” attitudes make a winning combination for our customers and puts us one step ahead of our competition. I would recommend Granite Source to anyone looking for a high quality stone package installed in a very professional manner. I commend Granite Source and their highly skilled staff.
We are very pleased with the final results. Thanks for making the process easy.
In the kitchen and bath industry, it is important that customer service always comes first. Granite Source has truly shown that they take this business seriously, and that our customers are satisfied. In the time that we have done business with Granite Source, they have shown that they are very responsive, and in a timely manner in the way they approach customer service; from initial scribe to completion, their turnaround time has not been more than five to seven days, and are willing to accommodate special requests for a quicker production when possible; and above all, their quality of fabrication is very good, and the attention to detail is outstanding. We look forward to many more years of working with Granite Source, and will continue to recommend them to our customers.
As a designer with ART Design Build it has been a pleasure working with both Anthony Hayden and Granite Source on our latest design/build project. We were working with a client who had a very distinct idea of the granite they wanted and Anthony and Granite Source went above and beyond to help us find the granite they desired. They also made the process very easy for all involved and the installation went very well. The finished product looks amazing and I will recommend Anthony Hayden and Granite Source to all of our future clients. I look forward to working with Granite Source for years to come.
Expo Bethesda has used Granite Source for over 3 years and cannot be more satisfied. Granite Source has a great rapport with our design and sales team. They have completed effortless projects from bathroom vanities to the most complex projects such as installing the Saudi Arabian Embassy. No matter the project, the professionalism and attention to detail is outstanding. Not only the office staff, but the measurement technicians and the installation teams are highly educated on the stone industry and the process of stone installation. I would recommend Granite Source Inc. to any other company looking for professionalism, quality and all around customer service oriented.
We are extremely pleased! Everything went well. I was especially happy with the very prompt service. From the time I made the first call to your company until installation was in a record amount of time. The counter tops look great!
The quality of granite and workmanship for the jobs Granite Source has done for my company has been more than satisfactory. All employees have well trained and professional.